My best set up back in day was an FI Q in 2.5 cubes ported tuned to 29hz it had a fairly flat response down to 30hz and measured 137dB at the kick panel with the window down
Hey BM! Last week, I fixed a hatchback Toyota van with warped hatch. It would not latch up when you shut it. My son backed in to a tree with the hatch up. Bowed that sucker right in the middle some, just enough so that latch didn't meet. Well having mulled it over, I took a 2.5" square tube hunk of steel I had in the shop, just about the length of the hatch, and C clamped it to the hatch with wooden pads. Then I put another wooden pad right on the hump. I presumed it had been exaggerated some. Then a heavy duty pipe clamp from the hump pad to the steel and screwed her down till look about right. Did this to a little less on the other side, until it looked right. Removed all this stuff, and sure enough it latch up. Didn't even fuckup the paint.
Shoot! I suppose this would qualify as helping someone besides myself. But not true. I don't want my grandsons tumbling out an unlatched hatch.
We had a Chevy work van years ago that the illegal Columbian co-worker I've mentioned that came here through Florida worked on. It was hit so hard in the side that the roof shifted from the inertia. He replaced the side of it but come time to put it back together nothing fit. The new driver door stuck out 2 inches at the top. He asked me to help him, I bent the top of the door in so it fit. It actually buckled at the top of the door panel. Paint didn't crack. Later he installed the rear doors. When on the tops were misaligned by an inch. I lifted one door up and hung myself from the other side to pull it down. The company that owned it took it and loved it. Thought it was as good as new. HA!
JL audio has always made quality stuff. Incredibly over priced, but always quality. I dont think they even made 18"s unless they are w0s or w1s maybe. they had weird sizes like 13.5"s for the w7 and w6.
hah we used to have a test disc they used for IASCA or something, woofer excursion tests, entire spectrum of sound, etc Fun shit
Okay so I have whatever tf this is in my trunk Not even sure if that's related in any way... This is my amp. http://www.kicker.com/12CX6001 I believe it's two channel? And I want cable rated for 600w so I can run it 4 ohm?
Based off of what I've seen it looks like I'll have to drill through the firewall behind the glove department. I might just end up paying someone to do it... still undecided. I just don't want to fuck things up.
Here, your link gives you a download for the specs, and the manual. So get that. I think it tells you the answer to all your questions. http://www.kicker.com/app/manuals/amplifiers/cx/2012_CX_Mono_Amps_RevI.pdf You do need to carefully match the speakers to the amp for the ohms impedance match. I am not sure what you want to hook up? One big woofer? That would be a 2 ohm 600 watt job. This would be new stuff to me, never seen 2 ohm speakers. 4 and 8 is all I have ever use. So get this right or boom goes the amp. According to this, you need 8 guage wire to power the amp from your power distribution panel to the amp. No need to worry about noise on this wire just use copper auto electrical 8 guage wire but don't runs this stuff through sharp edged metal holes. Use rubber grommets like someone else told you. If you fuse the power source at the panel where you pick up the 12v power, you will be cool and not burn car up. You really do not need to worry about the watts (600 or 300) cable you use to run from the amp to the speaker(s). Most coax will do, RG8 would do fine. It is the size of power wires to the amp that you need to get close to right, 8 guage. I think 10 would too, hard for me to think your car is long enough to need 8, but they call for 8. Drill your hole, you can do it!!! Just check both sides, dirill in, drill out.
I'd be hooking up two of these http://www.jlaudio.com/12w3v3-2-car-audio-w3v3-subwoofer-drivers-92153
Its 600 watt at 2 ohms and 300 at 4 ohms though, so couldn't I only run it 2 ohms if I had 600 watt cable?
I am confused by what I can see here. I see a place to hook up two speakers independently on the back side of the amp. That is on the same side of the power connection to the amp. The on the opposite side, I see input and out put in with RCA connectors. You say you have a cable for the speakers? Where does the cable connect on the amp? The RCA jacks? Or the wire jacks on the other side? I would speculate you are to connect the two 2 ohm speakers in parallel using the pair of speaker wire jacks on the power connector side.. The other side, the RCA jacks would seem to be input signal out to another amp or what ever. If so the the two speakers you have are to be run a two ohm, each more that capable of handling the max power output of the amp at 300 watts to each speaker. I don't see any of this written anywhere though. I can't imagine hooking speakers up in series for 4 ohms and 600 watt drive. The manual only seem to shows one speaker of 600 watts. Hey, they call for 4 gauge power cables so you best use at least 6. Dang! I hope I don't find you parked next to me while waiting for a long light!
