Unfortunately tham amp is 1 channel and not 1 ohm stable. You have 2 2ohm woofers which means in series you will have a 4ohm load and in parallel you'd have a 1ohm load. The safe bet is to wire in series. If you wanted to chance it you could wire in parallel, the amp might over heat. If the box is ported you would get some impedance rise and it might be safe, i wouldnt blast the volume though. As a novice it would be best to just wire in series and eventually get another amp. A 4gauge wiring kit would be fine. Get a decent kit from crutch field, verify it's copper wire. Professional install might be a good way to go for this job as it's relatively easy and low power that the corners they cut wont affect much performance. Im a fan of diy installs but i dont like having to bypass factory amps and drill through firewalls for a first install.
A lot of class d amps have 1 output channel with 2 terminals to make wireing in parallel easier. This is one of those cases. When looking at wattage you should only looke at RMS companies use max ratings as a sort of false advertisement. Sure it might make max power for 2 seconds on a loud distorted burp with an 18 volt input but in a vehicle with a normal alternator you'll be lucky to see 12.8v-13.4v at the amps input.
Cool! I think you gave good stuff. I could not tell from the info whether that amp would support two loads independently as 2 ohms each or one parallel load as 1 ohm. You knew, I did not. The amp would surely fry it's self with a one ohm load. If I hook it up in my boat, you would see from 12.5v to 14.8v at the amp, depending on the state of charge of the battery bank. When down, it might be as low as 12.5, even with the alternator producing what it can at the current engine rpm. It takes a long time for a 1500 amp/hour bank to reach 14.8v. Unless I fire up the generator which can crank out 230 amps.
Yeah car audio is a little different. I use to able to tell you what companies used the best components in amps and which ones could be pushed past their rated limits. Car audio companies use to rate their amps at 12 volts too so once your alternator turned on you made more than advertised power. Advertising and chinese manufacturing crippled the industry. Cadence was one of the last companies to sell out and i got out of the hobby when they fell. Im pretty sure the amp in qustion would over heat if he wired in parallel. The w3 is a good sub you could consider a new amp but im hesitant to recommend as ive been out of the game for several years. The theory is still there, but i lost track of the industry. If you still want to try for a diy install bcae1.com is a great resource if it's still up.
This reminds me of a friend in highschool. He had a thick paperback book about building car speaker boxes and wiring amps and all this stuff. He read it from cover to cover and built a system in his car using cheap components but done right. It sounded great. A couple of years after school he was making good money and lived with his mom. He replaced all the cheap speakers and Amps with expensive stuff and it did sound better but he was kinda disappointed because for the money it should have been way better. Just goes to show how correct setup can make the most out of what you have to work with. I brought earplugs with me when I had to ride in the damn thing.
Yeah i had about $800 in my system in high school and it was loud enough to make the doors bounce about 3/4 inch off the body while latched. It's mostly about building the right box for the speaker. Then making it produce peak power at the vehicles resonance frequency so everything rattles louder. Then i got into sound quality over spl. That's all about speaker placement as higher frequencies are so directional. Just a steering wheel between you and a tweeter can affect the sound. I hate tweeters facing the windshield. The loudspeaker cookbook was a great read
