Interesting. I inspected places like this over 25 years as a home inspector. Why the holes that run parallel to the piers? Did you transport the fill to the covered pirate treasure chest near the electric panel components or it that where you buried your Lakers fan relative that pissed you off or you like to dig holes and strain your back? Sorry....I can't resist>>To the left of the electrical panel, I see a thimble hole. Was that for the old boiler/furnace flue? I'm sure you have no liner. The water heater/heating units are not in the picture. I don't see the main water pipe and or well tank. I also see questionable wire connections or lack thereof on the right joist group. I wonder about the middle pier crown and it's spread footing located under your main beam. I wonder if the 10 course pier concrete masonry units are grout filled and bonded to the main beam too. How deep are those footings? The three piers are not original. They replaced a possible wood pier design. The house must be built in early years of the last century. To the left, the soil stack "fernco" coupling angle from the main drain pipe is unusually steep. The staircase stringers (one damaged) appear to be in direct contact to soil fill instead of a solid landing. (Check for rot/termites)(No guard and hand rail too) If you are in a radon zone the exposed soil is a conducive area. No vapor barrier too. Brick foundation walls trap water seepage. That front wall is mysterious. Your basement is creepy.
Whoa!!! So upon remodeling our house we found that the additions that were done 20-30 years ago, they didnt put any support beams underneath, so in a couple areas the house has a slight saglean where the house has settled a bit. They didnt pour a formed footing but put a 4 corner/tapered footing you buy at the store with a bracket ready for a 4x4. Im not sure if it is worth the money it will cost to get under and hand dig to pour actual footings or not and cant really gst a straight answer from the gc’s ive had look at it. They also didnt insulate these sections, so i need to get that done. We are freezing at night. Then i need to get a bid on adding an egress window to he basemwnt with full cement walls. Not sure if even possible. Then i need an electrician to trace some daisy chain Nd omit a coule switches aNd get our pourch lights working. Sounds like you know your stuff. Any prelim thoughts to maybe lead me in the right direction? Older farm house in canby.
Thanks Brother. Perhaps you can probe under those footings with a golf club shaft to determine depth. Footings in my area under the Residential Building Code (NJ Edition) dictate a 36" depth with the width sufficient to distribute the load. Many times steel lolly columns are used because they are designed to attach to a beam with lag bolts. Your foundation should be the first phase of your re hab and be done by an experienced GC. Since it was a farmers house, you should be aware that throughout my career I always found some idiocy created by their building/electrical/plumbing attempts. My big question is>> Did you have a ASHI member and or State licensed person to provide you with a quality building inspection done prior to purchase? Since it is an old house you may wish to investigate the idea of blown in insulation. What side of the house faces North? That is relative to insulation values and weather effects/deterioration. Your family is freezing at night because you don't have a thermal barrier. At night the house is a freezer. The basement egress issue should be last on your list. From an electrical standpoint, a licensed electrician can investigate load capacity for each circuit. Daisy chaining indicated lack of outlets. I believe one is needed for every 8 linear foot. Open flying splices are common and not to National electrical code. Dedicated breakers for heat systems, the refrigerator, dishwasher and air conditioning units should be designed into the system. I bet that is an old Bulldog-ITE or GE panel. I could not tell if that was a throw switch on the backer board. *I would invest money is a reputable general contractor for foundation and bearing load repairs that are needed throughout. *The electrical system is vital because you families' safety is absolutely paramount. If you have any suspended ceilings, absolutely check those areas. I used to take a picture and review it to determine electrical source, junction box presence, wire gauge parameters and so forth. Where is your heating system. Is it oil fired? That chimney crown in this second picture indicates a 3 inch galvanized pipe with a cap. I doubt there is a liner. That job is about 2K because of the labor and the fact they can charge that number. The shed roof lacks a fascia board and you could do it yourself. Take out all shrubbery at the porch because of water retention, frost action and root growth. I see some tar at the porch roof siding joint which is suspicious, possible inadequate or no flashing components. Once again Thanks I retired from private home inspections after all these years and now work municipal part time is this great town across from Philly as a building, housing and fire inspector. You can always pm me for advice. S2 members matter!
Oh so THIS IS a real residence. For a second there I thought you were sight seeing at Ed Gein's old place.
Oh Come on it's Christmas, lets be nice to our hipster brethren. SEATTLE YOU SUCK! I secretly kind of like Seattle, don't tell my parents.
More like your older brother who went to a bettet school and condescends in such a subtle way that it drives you crazy. So Merry Christmas, Seattle. You sucky place!
Santa has a magic bag that can make almost any Christmas miracle come true. But your literally asking Peter Pan to sprinkle Fairy Dust around here.
